Flight of Fancy

Saint-Ex combines elements of a Parisian bistro with the ambiance of a neighborhood café.

By Rekha Murthy

Places like Saint-Ex are rare. They fulfill the needs of almost any mood, price range, and social group, all while maintaining a distinct personality. Proprietor Michael Benson dreamed the place up with inspiration from evenings spent in the bistros and jazz clubs of Paris's Latin Quarter. While the top floors of these bistros are primarily restaurants with a homey feel, descend into the basement and the scene fades to that of a smoke-filled music lounge. “You really felt like it was the 1950s, ” Benson says. “You felt like Ernest

Benson took that vision of a dual-identity destination and paired it with his love of antiques, aviation, and the writings of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. Saint-Exupéry is best known for “The Little Prince,” his simple yet profound meditation on life and humanity. But Saint-Exupéry's flights of fancy were mainly spent airborne; he was a pilot beginning in the 1920s, when flying was romantic and daring.

Café Saint-Ex recreates that era beautifully, leaving no trace of the Ethiopian greasy spoon that preceded it. The centerpiece is an art deco oak bar, carted by U-Haul from an old Philly neighborhood. Benson and some talented friends designed woodwork, window preparations, a custom-molded pressed-tin ceiling, and even a stained glass image of a DC-3 to complement the bar's distinct style. A wood propeller hanging on the wall came from Benson's grandfather, who flew a biplane in World War I. The lighting is low and pleasant, and the music usually unobtrusive.

Below ground, in a space that resembles an airplane hangar, DJs spin just about everything and people dance, when they're not lounging in plush chairs in the corner or milling around the bar in the back. Lawyers and punk rockers do seem to cohabit with relative ease. “Our goal all along has been that we're a neighborhood café,” Benson says. He and his wife, Christy, have lived in the area for seven years. They see a neighborhood in transition, and Benson worries that what people are calling “gentrification” is simply

Chef Jay Jenc is one of several friends that have poured their energies and talents into Café Saint-Ex. Jenc came from Greenwood, 701, and most recently, IOTA Café. He's brought his vision of refined comfort food to Saint-Ex, and Benson gives him free rein.

Overall, the food is great. The burgers are charred on the outside, pink on the inside (although you may not get the level of done that you asked for). The fries are crispy and properly salted, and the homemade ketchup is light and sweet. The seared tuna is bountiful and smooth like butter, though anyone with sinuses should approach the strong wasabi mashed potatoes carefully. My vegetarian friend felt a little out of the loop, but was appeased with an “exquisite” fresh tuna sandwich. Desserts like the lemon cardamom créme brulée and the warm apple crisp left everyone feeling good. In our group of eight, everyone said they would come back despite the slow service. Christy Benson said that with the place open for barely two months, they're still working on staffing.

It's clear from the constant crowds in the basement, the bistro, and on the outside patio that Café Saint-Ex is accomplishing a lot in a relatively small space. Kind of like Saint-Exupéry and his famous little prince.

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