| 14th
& U Rekindles Its Spirit and Soul
After a long
period of dormancy, the gentrified corridor bustles with chic shops
and delightful dining.
By Shaun Rodriguez
It was once the place to be. The District’s own version of
Harlem, where one could see such jazz superstars as Duke Ellington,
Ella Fitzgerald, Billy Eckstein, and Sarah Vaughn perform live.
Starting in the late 1920s and up
until the late 1950s, the 14th & U St. corridor teemed
with creative souls. Jazz clubs, large and small, lined streets
interspersed with restaurants and supper clubs. Small minority
businesses flourished from constant traffic and fostered a
sense of community with their fellow business owners. And
amidst it all stood the Lincoln Theatre, in all of its opulent
splendor. This then predominantly African-American neighborhood
had it all.
Then came the riots of the1960s. The black community’s
outrage at the assassination of Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.
came to a feverish boiling point on the same streets where
many African-Americans had found a place to call their own.
The jazz clubs, once the pulse of the neighborhood, flatlined
after the riots. Those businesses spared from a fiery end
closed for good on now-empty sidewalks, sending a legendary
neighborhood into long hibernation. |

Maison 14 offers quaint French antiques
|
Today, the “new U,” as it has been affectionately called,
has taken the spirit of the U St. of old and kicked it up in grand
millennium style. The once chiefly black neighborhood is now an
exercise in diversity. Hip and trendy restaurants and nightclubs
line the streets once more. Ultra-urban lofts and chic condos sprout
up faster than you can say “gentrification.” Small businesses
have again found a home on these familiar streets, rekindling the
same sense of community and kinship that had once made this neighborhood
the epitome of productivity at its best.
In this installment, we look at the eclectic mix of merchants who
inhabit this area and have helped breathe life into a neighborhood
that was slowly suffocating.
Tres Different
What do you get when you mix South of France chic with contemporary
urban sleek? The answer is Maison 14, the latest addition to the
bevy of home furnishings stores that have set up shop in the 14th
and U St. area.
“We wanted to do something different,” said Gilles
de Concillio, co-owner of Maison 14. The store’s opening in
July met with a warm welcome, and the “something different”
it offered was a pleasant addition to a neighborhood that has always
craved diversity. This beautiful location, formerly the Dollar Store
on 14th St., with its floor-to-ceiling windows, extra high ceilings,
and artfully distressed walls gives a little South of France zest
to the area south of U St.
De Concilio and his partner, Christopher Walsh, knew that they
wanted to open an establishment of some sort. The duo met in France,
De Concilio’s native land, while Walsh was visiting as a student,
and they have been friends ever since. After tossing around the
idea of a bar, café, or restaurant, they decided to combine
De Concilio’s background in French antiques with Walsh’s
background in public relations and open a furniture store. The name,
Maison 14, which came from the desire to incorporate the French
influence with the rich history of the 14th St. area, is a suiting
moniker, illustrating the store’s broad spectrum of style.
Maison 14 offers up a stylishly inviting blend of French antiques,
wrought iron from Morocco, and Italian leather that juxtaposes the
ornate with the linear, the extravagant with the minimalist. Think
Theodore’s meets Sotheby’s, but without obscene prices.
The store, set up like mini living spaces for inspiration, has everything
from plates (starting at $5) to an antique wedding armoire (which
will set you back $12,000), with lots of wonderfully affordable
pieces between. My personal favorite was the wrought iron and peach
leather living room suite. Maison 14 is an individualist’s
paradise. “Style to me,” Walsh said, “is having
a sense of self and not being afraid to express it.”
A Taste of Home
Chef Mark Giuricich wanted
to create a neighborhood restaurant reminiscent of those in
and around the New York area where he grew up. He wanted to
have a place where generations of families could come and
enjoy good food, good wine, and good friends.
“I wanted to open a restaurant where my friends could
hang out, and a place where I could hang out with them,”
said the former executive chef of the National Gallery of
Art. |

Cosy Kuna brings authentic Italian cuisine
to the corridor.
|
Once he determined DC needed such a restaurant, the next question
was where. Giuricich’s dream found a home on U St., and that
dream was born in the form of Kuna. The now 13-month-old restaurant,
inspired by memories of his grandmother’s cooking, serves
up great Italian food at affordable prices.
The atmosphere is minimalist. Chocolate-colored walls are sparely
adorned with lithographs, textiles, and black-and-white photos.
The bare lighting, which at first glance seems stark, turns enticingly
sensuous when dimmed. The vibe is warm and welcoming. Guests are
invited to sample wines while they wait for a table. The major focus
here is -- and rightfully so -- the food and the wine. Though cocktails
are available, choices are limited. However, what the restaurant
lacks in the way of mixed drinks, it makes up for with its wine
list. The selection leans more toward red wine than white but features
some delightfully tasty treats. One of the best treats is the price.
The wines all hover in the $30-per-bottle range, with a scant few
venturing up to $70 per bottle.
And the food -- let me tell you -- is the stuff of an epicurean’s
dream. There is love in every bite -- nothing bland or haphazardly
prepared. Each dish features the same affectionate detail found
in Giuricich’s grandmother’s kitchen. The spinach fettuccini
with cabbage and ground chorizo, a dish that seemed questionable
on paper, was blissful. Equally moving was the risotto pancake with
mozzarella, tomato, and basil. Chef Giuricich describes the menu,
which consists mainly of pasta and the occasional meat special,
as being “of the minute.“ Quality is the key. He uses
only the freshest products, even if it means changing the ingredients
to retain the standard of excellence that defines the restaurant.
“This is my house,” Giuricich says, ”and when
people come in here, I want them to come in as if they’re
coming into my house, not my business.”
When not starring as Urban Mother: Mistress of Laundry, Shaun
Rodriguez can be found either madly scribbling the secrets and ironies
of life and love in her journal or pretending to be a photographer.
| Maison 14 |
Kuna |
1325 14th St. N.W.
Washington D.C. 20005 |
1324 U St. N.W.
Washington D.C. 20009 |
| 202.588.5800 |
202.797.7908 |
Monday:
Tues-Sat:
Sunday: |
12 p.m.-7 p.m.
11 a.m.-7:30 p.m.
12 p.m.-5 p.m. |
Dinner Monday-Saturday.
Closed Sunday.
Dinner for two: around $70 |
|