Luxe and Local

A dash of flash and simple, organic ingredients make Local 16 a standout on U St.

By Alex Walker

The restaurant's name is a play on words with multiple interpretations. By borrowing the same word used for labor union chapters, Local 16 belies the owners' interest in local politics. Soon after the restaurant opened, it hosted a fundraiser for the D.C. Statehood Green Party featuring consumer advocate extraordinaire Ralph Nader. The name also suggests the restaurant's desire to be the kind of unpretentious, neighborhood place that cultivates regulars.

The owners renovated the former Julio's restaurant to maximize the Victorian building's attributes. Walking into what used to be the pool hall portion of Julio's, you are greeted by high, pressed-tin ceilings, cut-glass and brass chandeliers, and garnet-colored walls. The polished but informal atmosphere is reminiscent of the Eighteenth Street Lounge.

When the weather permits, the upstairs patio -- strung with lights -- offers a lovely setting in which to drink and people-watch. And the music emanating from the speakers is as eclectic as the samples on a Thievery Corporation album (as it happens, one half of the DJ duo is part owner). Downstairs, an ample wooden bar, its wide surface gleaming, is perfect for dining alone or getting a drink.

Dining Through the Din

Unfortunately, the acoustics of the main dining room are more suited to the pool hall that preceded Local 16 than a restaurant. On one Tuesday night, I strained to hear my dining companion as the tables filled up and the sound bounced off the walls. Now in my 30s, I admit to having no tolerance for really smoky bars. Concerned that my sensitivity to the noise at Local 16 was also a function of my advanced age, I checked with some 20-something friends. To my relief, everyone shared the same complaint. Carpets on the floor, carpets on the ceiling -- something to muffle the cacophony is desperately needed.

Now to the food, which Local 16 really wants us to believe is its raison d'etre. The photocopied menu means it's still evolving or printing fresh menus as ingredients change. Either way, I sensed a reluctance to commit to the 11 entrees listed.

My first night there, the manager and one of the owners played guinea pig for the chef, serving themselves from big bowls of some aromatic couscous creation under consideration. The waiter competently described three specials to us, explaining that the chef was experimenting with potential entrees.

I hope the pan-fried trout makes the cut. The tender fish entree was proof of the rewards of buying local, in-season produce. A light lemon and caper butter sauce enhanced the sweet flesh of the trout and steamed spears of asparagus on the side. The accompanying roasted red potatoes, tossed with rosemary and olive oil, were pleasingly crisp.

Other specials that night were veal (raised locally) and a seafood mixed grill with saffron rice. Alas, the side of sauteed vegetables was more memorable than the main event. Although fresh, the chunks of grilled salmon, swordfish, and mahi-mahi needed some seasoning -- a marinade or salsa, perhaps -- to bring out their flavor.

No Frills

Local 16's menu aspires to combine comfort food and a contemporary American presentation. An Angus burger, tarragon-grilled chicken and mashed potatoes, and creamy risotto are the kind of crowd-pleasing choices that could make the restaurant a neighborhood favorite.

Once Local 16 sorts out the kind of establishment it wants to be, it will succeed as either a restaurant or a bar. I'm pulling for the restaurant, because -- with its stunning interior and a more consistent menu -- Local 16 can serve the kind of casual, gourmet fare we need in this city.

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